Bens, beasties and breath-taking views….08.06.13

Here in Gods country when the sun shines you make the most of it and making the most of it we did.  Up early after a good nights sleep we were soon parked by the shores of Loch Earn and could see Ben Vorlich behind us.  It did look impressive and the walk in was lovely by the burn and then a fairly good path up the lower flanks of the mountain.

The weather was perfect.  Warm sun and not a breeze to be felt and it wasn’t long before layers were coming off.  Views opening up, as usual behind us took our eye further and further as the higher we got the more peaks that became visible.  Little silly moment as I remarked that the clouds seemed to be in 3D, d'oh!

As with all walks where you are consuming water in great amounts you do get caught short and on an exposed hillside it isn’t really the best environment to have a quick pit stop.  The only thing I’ll say about this incident is that having bits of dried grass where it doesn’t belong isn’t very comfortable  at all but after the initial shock it provided a good giggle which lasted well into the day.

We met 2 other walkers on the hillside that day from Fife who were, like us, taking advantage of the brilliant weather and getting out and about.   Like us their plan was to get to the top of Ben Vorlich then tackle the beastie that is Stuc a Chroin.

The path was reasonable, rocks winding in a zig zag fashion up the side of the Ben and with several false summits to tempt us.  Nothing prepared me for the final path up to the summit.   It was long, steep and looked incredibly inviting (actually it doesn't look that steep on the picture, but it was lol).  At the top was the trig point but there was still 30 mins + of hard work before that was reached.  Heads down and onwards and upwards.  This was turning out to be one of the most enjoyable days ever.

The summit was a surprise in many ways.  Firstly the views were tremendous, breath-taking.  Secondly we could see our next target for the day Stuc a Chroin and it looked amazing and thirdly there were millions of midges, swarms of the little blighters all over the place.  I’m sure as we stopped for first lunch a few were consumed with my sandwiches.  Horrid little bity things invading our space…….welcome to Scotland! 

Lunch had, including a wee bit of tablet bought in Callendar this morning we headed off down Ben Vorlich in the direction of Stuc a Chroin.  The closer we got to this impressive piece of rock the more exciting the prospect became.  I really do enjoy being amongst the rocks and having a bit of a scramble in my day.  I would scramble all day long if it was available but with this bad boy there was the challenge of potentially choosing our own route up.  This reminded me of the day on Tryfan in Wales where there wasn’t really a recognised path but boulder after boulder to pick your way through.  This seemed similar and that was indeed an exciting prospect.

We followed the path round the base and even contemplated leaving our bags at the bottom to collect on the way up but we’d gone past the point where that would have been an option.  Skirting our way around the hill we continued to follow a path, eyes focussed upwards to see if we could see somewhere that would lead us up the hill.  It looked both daunting and thrilling at the same time and one of the reasons why I love this pastime so very much.  Your mind is saying no you cant do that and then in the next second its silently giggling with glee knowing you can and you have before and you will again.

The path continued round the boulders and took us round to the south face of the mountain.  Here we could see a gully carved out of the side of the hill which was steep but filled with lovely lovely rocks and that seemed to be the way upwards.  There were others on the path and a crag rat who’d passed us not 10 mins ago we could see was more than half way up.  Oh to have the fitness of youth!

Making our way through the boulders I was in my element, enjoying every moment and not giving a hoot about steepness or the way ahead.  Just picking our way through the rocks and moving upwards.  Behind us was Ben Vorlich looking very impressive indeed and it was funny to think that only an hour ago we were up there.  Amazing!

It was a great walk up through the gully in between the boulders and through the rocks and it seemed like no time at all we were up on the ridge.   Over to the left was the summit and it was a nice walk across the rocky plateau to the summit cairn.  No flies on this summit, probably because it was less grassy and there was a nice wee breeze forming.   One of my most memorable moments on the side of a hill was here, as we stopped for second lunch, on the side of Stuc a Chroin with Ben Vorlich towering in front of us.  2 Bens, 2 beautiful Bens and as I lay there on the grass, eating the rest of our sandwiches, grapes and tablet I felt incredibly content.   What an amazing day.

All good things must come to an end the saying goes and we had to get up and start our descent off the mountain.  It was mid afternoon by this point and the sky was clouding over and the strong sun of the day was weakening.  A cool breeze was refreshing and we made our way down the path that skirted round the base of Ben Vorlich that would lead us back to the initial path of the morning.  The first part of the path was fine and then suddenly we were on a horrid shaley descent.  Ankle turning stuff and I got the poles out to steady myself on the slippy scree.  Not a nice descent at all and I just took my time and made my way down the zig zaggy path.  Thankfully it didn’t last for long and we were down on the valley floor with only a slight incline back up and round to meet the path from this morning.

This path was filled with people coming down off the hill and it seemed to have been a day out for many, young, old, some with dogs, some walking in groups and some walking alone.  The wander down the hill was lovely until a slip caused me to fall forwards and bang my knee on the rocks.  I thought my camera was damaged, I thought I was damaged and for a moment I went into “woe is me mode”……that didn’t last long as Chris, concerned that I was hurt, snapped me right back into reality.   He’s good at that J.

The path continued downwards and my legs were starting to feel it.  A slight distraction was the black clouds looming to the left and we wondered, if after such a glorious day, we were in for a spot of rain.   True enough, as we entered the last few 100mtrs of the walk the heavens opened.  Running back to the car with legs that felt like lead we didn’t get too wet and had a moment to sit back and reflect on what was another truly amazing day.

Can’t wait to get back to Scotland ……..lets make it soon x

Good times in Glenridding!

Glenridding weekend Part 1 - Hallin Fell 
 
Friday night took us up to Glenridding and to the Side Farm Campsite which by all accounts lived up to its reputation of being a bit slopey!!!!  Nevertheless we found a suitable pitch that wasn’t too bad and oh goodness me the views made up for it 100 times over.  So after a night of pitching, bbq’ing and generally relaxing watching  the sun disappear before the beautiful Sheffield Pike and Glenridding Dodd that was the sight before us, we were suitably refreshed early in the morning ready to head out and get a Wainwright under our belts.

 Packs loaded and sandwiches made we wandered out of the campsite and down round Ullswater towards the village of Glenridding where we’d find the terminal for the Ullswater Steamers.  The plan was to take the boat up to the other end of the lake and then walk back taking in Hallin Fell as our bonus prize of the day.

The trip on the Steamer was lovely.  Blue skies all around and fells and peaks looming over.  We could see over to Catseyecam and into the Helvellyn range with Swirrel and Striding Edge both looking spectacularly brilliant.  Thoughts turned back to the day we went both up and down Swirrel Edge in full winter conditions, crampons, ice axes and our chocolate Santa that we’d carried throughout the whole walk fell out of my hood and slipped down the ice sheet.  We wondered if anyone ever found him after the thaw and had a good giggle at the antics of that day.

The boat docked at Howtown and we headed inland.  The path took us up and away from the lake edge and over to the foothills of Hallin Fell.  This was a pleasant walk up and round the path, views of the lake and our target for tomorrow, Place Fell, were in abundance.   The higher we got the more peaks opened up and before long we could see over to St Sunday’s Crag, straight through to Helvellyn and even over to Blencathra and Skiddaw.  The weather was magnificent.  Beautiful billowy clouds, blue sky and a cool breeze to stop you from overheating.  Perfect walking weather.

Down off Hallin Fell we found the path that would lead us round the contour of the lakeside mountains which ultimately lead back to the campsite.  This was a busy route with all sorts of people on the path both going and coming.  One of the strangest sights we saw was a man carrying a rucksack designed for babies, but he had no baby, oh no, no baby at all.  What he did have though was a cocker spaniel….surely not, was the baby carrier for the dog when it got a bit tired.  Sadly we never saw what its main use was for.  It was on this path we stopped for lunch.  Cheese and piccalilli sandwiches and a pear, probably the most juiciest and delicious pear I have ever had, it was gorgeous.  Sitting there in the shade watching the boats go by was just so peaceful.

It wasn’t long before we were back at the campsite but decided to visit the tearoom first instead.  The afternoon sun by this time was beating down and the urge to just sit down and not move was too great.  Coffee and ice cream consumed we headed back to the tent to enjoy the afternoon sun.  The views over the lake were stunning and everything was so quiet and peaceful.

A beautiful end to a perfect day.  Good weather, a good walk and great company……….I’m a very lucky girl!

Part 2 -Plaice Fell

Sunday dawned and the sky wasn’t as clear but still full of enough blue bits to make us look forward to another days walking.  Place fell was the target and it had looked down on us from behind the campsite for 2 days now it was time to get up it.

After not a great nights sleep for me I wasn’t feeling my best but off we went anyways.  The path upwards was practically right on the doorstep of the campsite and it took us steadily up the side of the hill.  Quite quickly we had gathered quite a bit of height.  This was not a fell where you had a long walk it, it smacked you in the face with its steepness quite quickly but we steadily plodded on having the scenery around us as a distraction.   

Although the sun was out there was a cool breeze today and it wasn’t t-shirt weather as we were being buffeted by the chilly wind.  At one point on the side of the mountain dark clouds loomed and it looked like it could be rain any min.  This wasn’t good mainly because I hadn’t packed any wet weather gear………..major fail, rule 1 of any walking trip is pack for all weathers!!!!!

Luckily the looming dark clouds dissipated after a short while and we were blessed with blue skies and sunshine again.  The final path up to the trig point of Place Fell was an absolute treat.  What a beautiful fell, it comes quite close to one of my favourites, not my ultimate favourite but it’s certainly up there.  It’s got a character all of its own and I liked it.  Obligatory pictures taken and we were off down the path in search of the route that would take us over to Beda Fell.

Almost at the start of the descent I knew that my legs were struggling.  I felt twinges in my knees and sapped of energy.  My lack of a proper nights sleep was taking its toll and I really didn’t think I had another fell in me today.  We waited until we got to the bottom before I made my decision but the descent off Place Fell was right down to the road and the ascent to Beda Fell started there, no ridge walk, no linking route, just straight down and then up again and my heart sank as I knew, today, and the way I felt, I really wasn’t up for this.  Disappointing, yes but it’ll be there another day for us.

We decided, rather than take the path of yesterday back to the campsite, to get on the boat and take the Lake route back.  Wandering through the lower valley back to Howtown we could see the boat coming into port and reckoned we had about 15 mins to catch it.  We quickened our pace and made enough ground so that we were on the Pier before it docked and took the boat, back round the lake to Glenridding.

The afternoon was beautiful, sunny and bright and we took our time packing the tent away which signalled the end of our weekend.  Another brilliant escapade in the Lakes and a few more boxes ticked.

A delightfully dippy day in the dales.....

Sunday 26th May 2013

The alarm went off at 5am and once bags were packed, water bottles filled and sandwiches made we headed out into the sunshine in the direction of Kettlewell which would be the start point for our walk today.  Great Wernside was the destination and although it wasn’t the heady heights of the Lakeland peaks it was the most stunning area in the countryside and with the weather holding it had all the makings of an excellent walk.

The car park was in the centre of the village and adjacent to a lovely little stream.  We headed off out the village to find the path that would take us initially up through the valley which was itself a lovely part of the walk.  Lucious and green with some really unusual trees.

There was no one around, once sheltered from the chilly wind the sun got warm and it wasn’t long before layers were off as we headed further and further into the valley.

Views behind us opening up as far as the eye could see and the path ahead of us winding through the hillside carving our route.  The river beside us offering the faint sound of trickling as it tumbled through the rocks.

The river came to fork and our map told us to take the left hand route further up the hillside and veering sharp left to take us up onto the plateau past Providence Pot and heading towards the path that would take us up the final hillside to the summit of Great Wernside.

It was at this point, it was noticed that something was missing.  Chris’s sunglasses.  They must have come off when we were having a “delayering” moment so Chris headed back down the hillside to see if he could see them.  I waited with all the gear, packs and cameras and took the opportunity to study the map, have a banana and enjoy, for a moment, the sunshine, hoping to see Chris re-appear over the crest with sunglasses back on his head.

After about 45 mins he still hadn’t returned so I gathered up our stuff and went off for a wander back down the hillside.  Too heavy to go very far and afraid I’d miss him if he came up another path I waited on a large flattish rock for his return.  No sunglasses L, he went almost as far back as the village and couldn’t see them.  Gutted!

Heading again back up the hillside it was getting hotter and was a bit of a slog.  It reminded us of Grisdale Pike although there was no fog, mist and wind today and the slog, although hard work, was actually quite pleasant.  Behind us we could see over to the 3 Yorkshire peaks of Pen y Ghent, Ingleborough with Wernside  hiding in the cloud.

Before long we arrived at a largish pointy cairn with the path clearly visible in front of us up onto Great Wernside so we chose to stop here for 1^st lunch.  Cheese and piccalilli sandwiches on olive bread, fruit and nuts.  Delicious!

The final part of the path up onto the summit was quite boggy.  We darted in and out trying to avoid getting dirty/wet but before long we could see the trig point nestled in a large amount of boulders which was indeed quite pretty.  It was a bit windier up here so another layer was added and with the obligatory trig pictures taken we headed left over the top towards a grouping of rocks at the other end of the plateau ridge.  The rocks were an assemblment of cairns and a very large shelter, not needed today though.   The weather was beautiful and again it was a great feeling having the views that we had.

The path downwards was easy to spot and easy to navigate.  Not much in the way of loose rocks and a good solid path which made the going down easier than usual.

Arriving at the road that was taking cars and bikes back down into the village of Kettlewell we crossed it and continued on the path.  We hadn’t gone far along the path before we came to a small herd of cattle, all very curious as to what we were doing.  Chewing stopped and they all individually raised their heads and had a good old look at us…..extremely intimidating!  Escape routes over a nearby wall were mentally prepared and I desperately  tried not to make eye contact, even when taking their picture.  Beautiful beasts but a bit to close and curious for my liking.  We briskly moved forward and the fact is that they were probably not interested at all in us but they were big brutes and I was glad to be past them.

The path wound its way back down to the village and the sun was still shining.  We stopped for 2^nd lunch on the path and were rewarded with even more views of the stunning countryside. Interesting walls, luscious green pastures and of course behind us where’d we’d been that day.  What an absolutely glorious sight.

Back in the village we popped into the shop for a drink and then had a lovely ice cream treat which we ate by the riverside where the car was parked.  Sitting on the wall, in the sunshine, watching Dippers in the river darting about was a perfect way to end a walk.  Who says we don’t get good weather in this country?  These folk must be sitting at home, on the couch, with the curtains shut!

Grisdale Pike and the Rescue Rangers

Sunday 5th May and the weather is shockingly bad.  Drizzle and grey murky stuff is making today's walk seem like hard work.  I woke with a stinking cold, head blocked, fuzziness, no energy and a general lethargy which meant that I'd have to muster up all my gumption to make it through today's wander up Grisdale pike & Hopegill Head.

Unfortunately because of the weather there are no pictures on this post but I'll sum up the day quickly (that wont be hard) as a record of our day out.

After parking the car and having consulted the map (fingers not allowed!!!) we started up the path but not before taking the picture of a group of German students who were also heading towards the Pike.

The path was gentle but not feeling great I was struggling.  My nose was running and getting sore and the rain had started to  fall and coupled with the wind the day was matching my mood.

Before the start of the big climb the German students had passed us, as had another group of people but I didn't care.  I was going as fast as I could and with the weather closing in, cloud dropping, rain turning harder and wind picking up I just wanted to get to the top as quickly as I could, get the box ticked and get back to the warmth of the car.

Grisdale Pike is a series of false summits, something we're very used to, but with horrid weather you really do curse every pretend top.  We knew, from the map, that there was a shelter on top and I couldn't wait to get there so I could just sit and rest for a few mins and get something to eat of course.

About 50m from the summit we came across the German students who were struggling.  The girls of the group didn't seem too happy in the wind and driving rain.  They looked uncomfortable and told us that they were probably going to head back down.  A shame really as they were so close to the summit.

A little bit further on we happened across the other group that we'd met earlier in the day.  Mum, Dad and daughter who too were struggling and feeling a bit exposed in the wind and rain.  Mum was suggesting they go back but we persuaded them to go onwards (as it really was their best option) and they asked if they could walk with us.  So our little group of 2 became 5 with the addition of Gillian, Dave and their daughter.

The final push to the  summit was tough, slippy rock, driving cold rain and blustery wind.  The only thing keeping me going at that point was that I knew there was a shelter on top and I couldn't wait to get there.  Even when we reached the summit I think I practically ran down the path to the shelter, plopped myself down and tucked into a sandwich and chocolate.  I could have stayed there for ages but the daughter of the family that had joined us had jeans on, which were soaked through, and she was shivering a bit.  Time to keep moving.

Down off Grisdale Pike (grrrrrrrr!) and then up and over to Hopegill Head where we'd been on a previous walk although today there was no visibility whereas before the sun shone and there was snow underfoot.  Hopegill Head looked completely different today.

Once the path was found off the hill we knew that where we'd previously turned right to take us to Sail, today we'd turn left to take us down past the waterfalls to the valley floor.  Onto the old mining road back to Braithwaite where the pub awaited.

As we were descending the sky started to break up and we could see little glimpses of blue sky.  The rain stopped and the wind dropped and what was a horrid day weathewise turned into quite a pleasant afternoon.  Gillian and family were still with us and we'd had a lovely time chatting whilst coming down off the mountain.  We parted just before the pub and they were heading down to Lancaster for a Gourmet Burger which was their treat after a walk and we headed to the pub for a drink before heading home.

Grisdale Pike was a beast to tackle and I've been up and down many a beast but this one was tough.  I really felt I had to fight it all the way to the top and yet it didn't beat me.  Another tick in the box and a hill I'd like to go back and do again in calmer conditions as I'm sure its a stunner when visible.

Our weekend in the Lakes over with and some great walking was had.  Until the next time.............

Hindscarth, Dale Head & Robinson

Saturday 4th May

A weekends camping in the Lakes would give us 2 days walking without that long drive home at the end of day 1 so on the Saturday morning we opted for a wander over to Hindscarth, Dale Head and Robinson starting off from Little Town.

Little Town had a little car park which was empty and as we headed up the path the sky was dullish and grey.  I wondered at that point whether I'd need my sunglasses today and decided not to take the 2 min walk back to the car to get them as I'd probably not need them.  The forecast for the weekend was bright but the sky wasnt showing any signs of that as yet.

The walk up Hindscarth was really pleasant.  A few rocky scrambly areas to contend with but all in all a nice path that lead you up the hill.  There were a few false summits but that is only to be expected and the further we got the more the cloud seemed to lift from the summits giving us a little bit of hope that the conditions would clear and we'd get the views we wanted.

The views back down the valley were stunning.  Every now and again the clouds would open up and a ray of light would illuminate one part of the valley or surrounding hills.

The shelter at the summit of Hindscarth was a good place to stop for first lunch.  The teeniest tiniest sandwiches ever but they were delicious, m & m's and some nuts finished off with some water.  Exactly what was needed to set us up for the next part of our journey.

The clouds were really opening up now and we could see our path over to Dale Head clearly now.  a narrow snakey path winding its way up and over the hill to the left after which it would be back down and then up and over the hill to the right, Robinson but first Dale Head.

We started to see more people on this route.  A couple we'd met on the way over Hindscarth were now on their way up Dale Head and there seemed to be loads of people on Dale Head making their way down.  A popular route by all accounts.

On the summit of Dale Head there was a tower like cairn.  Probably one of the nicest most well put together cairns I have ever seen on a walk and luckily for us the clouds have really started to shift now offering views right left and centre with the best of the views coming down the valley with Blencathra and the Skiddaw Range at the bottom, now fully visible.  I had to wait to get my picture of the cairn because there was a couple there having their picture taken by some other walkers.  Imagine that, having your picture taken together at the summit !!!! (lol)

Down off Dale Head it was time to take the path up Robinson for the final peak of the day and second lunch.  Robinson is a big lump of a hill and has no hidden surprises.  What you see is what you get and what you get is a fairly steep walk up its flanks and a nice plateau top.  The shelter at the top was a small circle of stones and only really room for 2.  It was vacant when we arrived so we sat and had our sandwiches and chuckled at the other walkers who turned up being buffetted by the wind only to realise that there was no shelter on the summit apart from where we were sitting.  One group did tuck down behind a wall until we got up to move then darted into the shelter themselves.  

Time to get down off the mountain.  Thoughts were turning to the pub dinner and a nice big glass of red wine that was waiting back at the campsite.  We'd seen the route down earlier in the day and knew that we had a bit of scrambling before a nice gentle plateau descent.  This was probably my favorite descent off a hill and had a mixture of dangerous rocky bits with a nice descent that was kind to my knees.  Lovely stuff!

Late afternoon and the sky was almost fully blue.  There was a bit of warmth in the sun and the walk off the hill was beautiful.  Soon we were back at ground level and following the road back round to where the car was parked.  As we walked along a path that followed the river there was a horse penned between 2 gates about half a mile apart.  As we approached the horse it came to us but not knowing it or its temprement we chose to walk up on the embankment to avoid it.  It sort of fancied Chris's banana as it came up onto the embankment with us and started gathering speed to catch up with us.  Dont make eye contact and keep moving we finally outwalked it and it seemed to give up.  It seemed a poor lonely horse and I'm wishing now I'd given it my spare apple.

Just before where the car was parked we passed a Church that was previous a school and served now as a place for quiet and meditation and was a lovely little building and soon enough we were back at the car reminiscing over a great days walking.  The best bit is that we didn't have to drive home, back to the tent for a few cheeses and wine then a wander to the pub was all on the cards and then tomorrow, another adventure up a hill..........Happy Days !