Stromboli - The volcanic adventure continues

21.09.13

Our visit to the island of Stromboli was for one purpose and one purpose only.  To climb it and see the much anticipated lava spurts of a still active volcano.

The island IS the volcano and has 2 small villages built into the mountain side on the opposite side of the crater,  There are signs throughout the island that inform on the actions to take incase of eruption and/or tsunami and the islanders live their lives day to day in the shadow of a lava spurting monster.  Will there be another major eruption, well yes of course their will be, no one knows when...........Behind our little apartment the puffs of smoke every 20 mins or so constantly reminded you of its presence.

We had paid to climb the mountain with a guided tour as its not permitted to venture up there without a guide but we didnt get off to a great start having been given the wrong time to arrive at the starting point and then having to rush up the fairly steep path to catch up with the group ahead.  The first 20/30 mins of the walk was at a fair pace and in the heat and with the steepness of the path I was just about done in before we'd even really started.  When we'd finally caught up with the group we found they were mainly American with one particular loud mouthed chap who never shut up but talked at a level that all 20 of us could hear.  A bit boastful about his work, the places he'd visited but he was a great distraction from the relentless march up the side of the mountain.  Stromboli is about the hight of Snowdon and we started at sea level.  I've climbed Snowdon a couple of times now but never at this pace and never in this heat.  It was a challenge.
We made several stops on route, one to taste some figs from a bush that was growing at the side of the path.  I found them delicious (albeit minus the nice bit of melted brie that would have made them perfect) but Chris didnt like them at all really.

The light was beginning to fade and just before the final path to the summit we stopped and layered up before the last of the sun dissapeared behind the horizon.  The last part of the walk would be in darkness and beyond the peak we could already see the rising smoke coming from the crater and the low gutteral boom of the lava spurts.  The boom was something that got you right in your chest.  It was a noise that meant danger but exciting, a noise that made the hairs on the back of your neck stand on end and I only wish I'd taken a recording of it as it was quite indescribable.

Arriving at the top we sat in rows on the top of the mountain and there in front of us was the crater with the sparks, smoke and frequent lava spurts of course always accompanied with that boom.  It was mesmerising and you really had to pinch yourself to remind yourself where you were and what your eyes were witnessing.  This is not a sight I'll ever forget as long as I live.

We sat there for the best part of an hour watching the show in front of our eyes.  All to quickly it was time to head down.  The path down was a different one to the one we'd come up.  Head torches guiding our way it was a steep march down in quite deep black sand which was being scooped by the bucketload into our boots as we walked.  There was a guide at the front of the group and one at the back and before long the 20 of us were split up over quite a distance.  The lead guide just took off like a rocket and it was quite hard work to keep up.   There were a few people behind us who fell and just couldnt keep up and by the time we arrived back at the start point in the village we could still see the head torches of people still quite a way up the mountain.  A harrowing descent but we got back safely.

After a lovely meal of pizza it took us quite a time to come down from the adrenalin rush that was our Stromboli trek.  A trip to remember and worth every penny, even if our guides weren't the best the experience was amazing............

Vulcano - Craters and Sulphar

Having landed on the island of Vulcano a few days into our Italian Adventure the towering peak stood proudly behind our hotel and was just begging to be climbed.  At random moments of the day you could see plumes of sulphur escaping from different bit of the mountain and I couldn't wait to get up there so we could see the crater for ourselves.

So off we set, up the clearly marked path that wound its way up the hill.  Every 100mtrs or so there was a sign letting you know how far you had to go.  It was early so we practically had the path to ourselves which was a blessing as the early morning ferries bringing people to the island for their own walk up the hill hadnt yet arrived.

The path was easy and the best bit was the opening views up behind us.  All the local islands were now on view and we could clearly see all the way over to Stromboli which was another volcano on our list.  As usual and with the heat of the day rising there were plenty of flies so it was best to keep moving as when you stood still they tended to swarm.

In less than an hour we were at the top of the path and at the southern end of the crater.  It was here we could see just how prominent the sulphur plumes were and the gases were escaping from most of the crater rim and bowl.  The smell was incredible, rotten eggs and not a pleasant smell at all.  I guess you get used to it but in some places it was really overpowering.

So we made our way up to the right to follow the path up round the rim and back down the other side.  There seemed to be more people about now and several paths showing different routes on different parts of the hill.

There were 2 routes really to chose from to get us down.  1 was through the sulphur field which was the one Chris too and the other was a path that took you down a little away from the sulphar which was the one I chose.  Never the less I was still able to capture Chris on his suphuric journey down the mountain side and he mentioned it was smelly and a bit hot...........ewwwww!

Up and down in a couple of hours and before the heat of the day and the hoards of tourists that were now clambering up the sides spoiled our day. It was a good call to go early and a truely spectacular experience.

Gordale Scar & Malham Cove

04.08.13

We’re Yorkshire bound this weekend.  No big hills but a nice walk all the same was planned. Gordale Scar and Malham Cove would be our destination and as true with all our weekend walks we were up and out fairly early and set off towards Malham. 

The weather was fine when we left but sadly as soon as we parked the car the first signs of drizzle appeared.  Sadly this light drizzle didn’t put off the hoards of day trippers that were descending on the place but as a fairly well known tourist attraction we were somewhat prepared for this.  Our walks usually take us into places where only a handful of people are met during the course of the day and here today there were coachloads turning up. 

Gordale Scar was our first destination and it was a lovely walk in with Chris regaling tales of childhood where he came with his Mum, Dad and Sister.  How lovely to have this practically on your doorstep and as a kid it must have been a fascinating and exciting place to come.

 At the Scar we swithered for a moment or 2 deciding whether to climb up it or not and as it seemed dry enough we made our way through the rocks up and over the falling water till we reached the middle plateau which gave us a lovely view of the waterfall behind.

Pictures taken and a quick bite of something sugary and we were onwards and upwards again.  Up and out of the Scar we walked along a fairly flattish meadow with some indications of limestone pavement in the direction of the lake.  We didn’t venture right down to the lake but veered left before then towards Malham Cove and the vast area of limestone pavements.

 The path soon became flooded with people from all directions and we found ourselves in a snake like procession through the narrow path with loads of other walkers.  The path soon opened out to the top of the cove and it really is quite remarkable, a beautiful result of natures touch on the earth however by this time the coach parties had all descended and it was like Grand Central Station.  People everywhere, families, groups, young, old all out for their Sunday day out in the countryside.  I’m not knocking it, its great to see people out; I just prefer the solitude of our walks and the passing by of the odd 1 or 2.

The walk back to the car was uneventful and on a predictable path.  Luckily there was an ice cream shop open and we had a cone as we wandered back to the car.  It was a good walk and the scenery was absolutely lovely with the limestone pavements and the Scar being the highlight of the day.

Blencathra via Sharp Edge

Another early morning start for the trip up to the lakes to visit one of my all time “to-do” hills –Blencathra.  Since seeing a picture of this beauty a while ago it’s been on my tick list and I always knew it would be a special hill.   I was excited about the prospect of Sharp Edge and just how sharp that edge would be so off we went in the hunt for thrills and hopefully not spills.

Car parked just on the main road below the hostel and pub we set off “eventually” on the path upwards.  Why is it that sometimes the most difficult part of the day is actually finding the start of the walk.  Too’ings and fro’ings along the road and then the decision was made to just head up, through the ferns on a semblance of a path that eventually lead us to the right path that guided us round the hillside to the right gently ascending and ascending until we reached a plateau area where we could see the beginnings of that delicious ascent.

More winding round the hillside gaining more height finally brought us to a small tarn where we took stock for a moment and stopped to take a few pics of the ridge that rose practically right in front of us.  Sharp edge looked very tasty indeed.  

 Being early in the morning (as with all our walks) there was no one else around.  A couple of wild campers on the other side of the Tarn but other than that, it was just us, exactly how we like it.

Tarn and reflection pictures taken we set off up the path that would take us ultimately to the summit but before then we had the delight of traversing up and over the rocks that made up the path to the top.  It’s my ultimate fav part of any walk.   Narrow ledges, slight exposure, hands and feet on rocks, the logistical task of working out how and where to go.  I love it all.  

If anything the rocky part of the ascent was over too quickly and before long we were up on a large wide plateau for the last part of the path up to the summit.  Visibility was good and there were now a few other people around who had come from other ways and some people in a shelter who seemed to be manning an event station.  

 Up onto the summit the views were beautiful.  We didn’t stick around long as we had to get back down and over to Mungrisdale Common as it was a wee Wainwright box to be ticked.  So down off Blencathra and over to the left towards the very insignificant summit.  On the way there, across the boggy bit we heard a bleating and in a small pool of water there was a sheep, stuck.  It couldn’t get out onto the bank and seemed quite weak.  It was stuck in the muddy dark pool and left any longer probably wouldn’t have survived.  Chris swung into “action”, leaned over and grabbed its horns and heaved it out of the mud.   It was quite a moment as the rescued sheep trotted away and we were left with a bit of smiley moment as we knew something quite good had happened.  Yay Chris, you saved a sheep!

 Back over the common and towards Blencathra again to descend down the Southern end of the hill we started coming across people who were obviously partaking in the event of the day.  Some sort of 12 peak fell running thing and there were all sorts, young, old, groups, couples, individuals…..all running over the hillside.

Back up on the summit we headed over for the descent which on the face of it looked rockier and trickier than the sharp edge we’d just come up.  Sure it wasn’t as exposed but it was most definitely a hands on descent.  

 About half way down we passed a family who had a very young baby on board in a pappoose sort of thing on dads back.  Keen family but with the weather looking a little bit dodgy they were brave.

It was a tough descent and hard on the knees but as with all walks, if you keep moving forward you’ll reach your destination.  We emerged out on the road a fair bit back from the car so the last trek along the road certainly whetted the appetite for a nice, long cold drink at the pub.

Blencathra was all it claimed to be and for me one of my favourite hills in the Lake District and one I would certainly do again, for sure.

Snowdon, cream scones and wimbledon

Day 2 of our Welsh weekender and Snowdon was the target for today.  Tent all packed up and away in the car we headed to the Ranger station where we knew  the path started for the Snowdon Ranger route up the impressive hill.

From the minute you set foot on the path you can see the summit and that’s quite rare when climbing a mountain.  Although it takes a while before it actually appears to be closer you can see it all the way up the walk.

The first part of the walk was familiar as it was the same route as we’d come down from yesterday but instead of heading off the path to Llanberis we kept on walking towards the first steep part of the walk up the zig zags on the lower flanks of Snowdon.  There were a few people on the path with us, some passed us, we passed some but all in all it was a fairly quiet walk.  About 2 hrs in we decided to stop for first lunch and settled on a little patch of grass to tuck into crackers and pate yet again, a much needed rest stop and fuel for the walking ahead.

 It was at this point that the cloud started to come in obscuring our view of the summit for the first time.  The cloud got lower and lower and soon surrounded us blocking out views on all sides.  It was a pleasant reprieve walking in the mist and not having the hot sun seering down. On this part of the walk we started to see people descending who had obviously set off early doors.   One man that passed us remarked on how the summit was covered in midges and even worse, people.  Aggghhhh the downside of having a train to the summit of a mountain.   Hoards and hoards of day trippers.   

At the top of the Ranger route the path meets up with the mountain railway and through the mist we could hear the whistle of the train before we could see it.  There it was emerging from the mist packed with people all having their own Snowdon experience.  The better views were to the left where the impressive Crib Coch emerged proudly from the mist.  A blanket of cloud still nestled at the far end gave it the impression that it was volcanic and looked incredibly dramatic.  The cloud above had cleared and showed us the views from all directions and the sun was out again beating down and attracting all those blooming midges, grrrrrr!

Only a few more steps to the summit and after a quick touch of the trig it was down, out of the midge infested air and into the café where we had a nice cup of tea and a cream scone.  Such a delight and incredibly refreshing and a funny overheard conversation by a man who had a PHD in making stuff gave us another giggle moment of the day..   Water replenished and packs back on we headed back out where the cloud and mist had descended yet again.   A signal on our phone meant we could tag ourselves at the top and then we headed down onto the Bwlch Main ridge to meet with the Rhyd Ddu path that would take us back towards the direction of the campsite and where the car was parked.

 This route took us over some nice scrambly bits and down to the valley between Snowdon and Yr Aran.  We turned right here down through the old slate mine and realized that we’d missed the Rhyd Ddu path (most likely in the mist) and we’d gone a fair bit further left than we’d intended to.  It meant further to walk back to the car but we were down and we’d had fun coming down so that was a good thing, right?

Time for 2^nd lunch and the last of the pate.  We were passed by an unusual family who I’m now convinced were Pennsylvanian Dutch / Amish. The woman spoke with a sort of American accent but the rest of the family were accented.  They were very conservatively dressed (socks with sandals eeek!)  apart from the daughter who was dressed like a teenager.  So who knows!

The path was quite clear from here and we saw where the Rhyd Ddu path met up with ours and could clearly see the route we’d intended to be on but we’d have missed out on all the lovely scrambling so I’m not complaining.  Over the train track for the last time and it was a pint of soda water and lime at the pub……and a chance to see Andy Murray win Wimbledon whilst we were there.

Its late in the day by this point and time to head for home but what a great weekend in Wales.  Snowdon you never fail to please me x